1. Colours Beyond Classic Indigo
While indigo dye is synonymous with blue jeans, Mohsin explained that in the UK brown and green denim jeans were not uncommon. This was great news, as I’m keen to use locally collected dye materials for our jeans. I immediately began experimenting with dyes, starting with a small percentage of oak galls for a green tone. After adjusting the dye-to-yarn ratio, I achieved a darker shade that I love. Result!

2. Patterned Weaves vs Traditional Twill
Today, we consider twill—the weave that gives jeans their classic blue front and white back—traditional. However, Mohsin explained that historical workwear often featured patterned weaves as decorative elements. so why limit ourselves to twill weave for all denim creations? This was a revelation! As a weaver, I’m excited to explore alternatives to twill and have some pattern fun alongside weaving the meterage of twill for the fabric for our jeans.

3. Duck Weave: A Nod to Levi’s Origins
Mohsin discussed another alternative to twill based denim for jeans: a duck. And no, this has nothing to do with the cute bird :) It is a plain dense  weave construction used in Levi’s earliest jeans designs. I hadn’t heard of this before, but I quickly tried weaving a sample. It’s fantastic! Duck fabric is sturdy, has a lovely texture, and is easy to weave on a simple loom—making it accessible for beginner weavers. I’m determined to integrate it into our jeans, perhaps for the back pockets?

4. Size Inclusiveness with Cinches
From the start, I wanted our jeans to have a loose, genderless fit that’s size-inclusive, but was not sure to go about it. Miraculously, the question was answered in Mohsin’s presentation: cinches! And not only one option, but so many attractive historical variations. Reintroducing this feature could add both functional charm and flexibility, and make our jeans more size inclusive to fit a variety of body shapes and sizes.

5. Decorative darts for Biodegradability
While rivets are iconic, they aren’t biodegradable. Mohsin showed beautiful historical and contemporary examples of dart-reinforced seams as an eco-friendly alternative. This idea went straight onto my flax denim design list! Darts strengthen jeans strategically while ensuring they can break down naturally at the end of their lifecycle.

6. Square Pockets for Durability
Curved pockets may look nice, but they’re less practical with stiff fabrics like duck. Mohsin showed an alterative: square pockets, which follow the straight grain of the fabric.  What a simple but unique design element. Another idea that made it onto my wishlist!

7. Selvedge Details for a High-End Touch
Denim cloth was traditionally woven on a 80cm looms, so the denim had a selvedge on both sides. A details that Mohsin’s likes to use for High-End detailing. Incorporating selvedge as accents, whether on seams or pocket edges, adds a touch of craftsmanship that denim aficionados will instantly recognize and admire. Fingers crossed, we’ll have enough time and fabric to experiment with these stunning features.

These are just a few of the inspirations I took from Mohsin’s video. Proper garment designers would likely find even more ideas to explore. What makes his work so inspiring is how it connects denim’s history with forward-thinking ideas. This isn’t just nostalgia; it’s about reimagining denim in ways that are sustainable, innovative, and respectful of its roots.

Gallo places the origin of jeans in 16th-century Genoa, Italy, where the port city’s textile industry produced sturdy, coarse cotton fabrics for sailors. Known as jeane or jene fustian, these fabrics were exported across Europe and may have been a precursor to modern denim. There’s an overlap with a denim-like cloth called moleskin, another cloth I'll have to try on my loom!

(Image credit to the right: book cover "Jeans before blu jeans Hardcover, 2021, Italian edition by Marzia Cataldi Gallo)

Final Thoughts
Mohsin Sajid’s generosity and expertise have been a treasure trove of inspiration. His video isn’t just a lesson in denim; it’s a reminder of the thoughtfulness and creativity that go into every pair of jeans. Whether you’re a designer, a denim enthusiast, or simply curious about what makes this fabric so special, 150 Lost Denim and Workwear Details is a must-watch.

I’m looking forward to putting these ideas into practice and continuing the journey of weaving the past into the future!