Why linen denim jeans?


Blue jeans are one of fashion’s most classic wardrobe staples, with 70 million pairs sold annually in the UK and over 4.5 billion pairs sold worldwide last year. The combination of the highly damaging practice of using synthetic indigo, which releases 84,000 tonnes of sodium hydrosulphite into the environment – a poisonous and carcinogenic chemical – and genetically modified cotton that consumes large amounts of water, fertilisers, and pesticides, creates a garment with a dire environmental cost.

 Inspired by Fibreshed and the "Grow Your Jeans" Project
© Fibershed 2020

One of the inspirations for creating linen denim jeans is Rebecca Burgess' "Grow Your Jeans" project, which is part of the larger 150-mile wardrobe challenge by Fibreshed. This initiative emphasizes the importance of regional and sustainable clothing production, demonstrating how communities can cultivate their raw materials locally and transform them into wearable garments. The "Grow Your Jeans" project epitomizes this philosophy by showing that jeans can be grown, spun, and sewn within a 150-mile radius, minimizing carbon footprints and supporting local economies. While in the US this meant creating jeans from locally sourced, naturally grown cotton, in the UK the traditional plant fibre with a long history would be linen, made from the flax plant.
 
Addressing the Environmental Impact of Cotton

Image by iema.net

As mentioned, cotton farming requires vast amounts of water and is often associated with the use of harmful pesticides and fertilisers, which degrade soil health and pollute water sources. By exploring alternatives like linen, the environmental footprint of denim production can be significantly reduced. Linen requires fewer resources and chemicals to grow, making it a more sustainable option. Moreover, linen can be part of regenerative agricultural practices and, instead of harming the soil, can positively contribute to soil health.

Building on the Success of Previous Projects

The idea of developing linen denim also builds on the success of the #homegrownhomespun project in 2021 and the #womangrowsjeans initiative in 2023. I and the good fortune to be involved in both projects and join some of the steep learning curves involved. These projects have laid a strong foundation by demonstrating the viability of locally produced, sustainable textiles. They have not only raised awareness about the environmental impacts of traditional fabric production but also showcased the potential of alternative local and regenerative plant fibres in creating sustainable denim.

Extending the Flax Movement to Southern England

Another key motivation for creating linen denim jeans is to extend the flax movement, which has already gained momentum in Northeast and Scotland through Fibred UK, to the south of England. The Lets Grow Flax initiative aims to showcase the opportunity that communities can grow their own flax to create a bio regionally communally grown garment.

This regional expansion is crucial for fostering more awareness about responsible textile production. By encouraging communally grown flax cultivation, we can increase the availability of linen and support more local farmers and artisans.

Connecting communities to small-scale production facilities can establish a bioregional textile networks and support textile resilience and hence empower local communities. This network will enable different communities to collaborate, share resources, and support each other in producing responsibly produced and locally crated textiles.

Ultimately, the Let's Grow Flax initiative aims to empower communities, enrich local economies, and foster a deeper connection to the origins of our clothing, all while mitigating the environmental impact of denim production.

The Importance of Flax and Linen in Regenerative Fashion

Bringing back flax and linen as key materials in fashion is not just about meeting sustainability parameters; it’s about embracing regenerative practices that can profoundly benefit our environment. Flax and linen offer numerous advantages that go beyond mere sustainability:
  • Soil Health Improvement: Flax is known for its ability to enhance soil health. Its deep-root system helps break up compacted soil, improving its structure and fertility. This regenerative effect can make subsequent crops more productive and reduce the need for chemical fertilizers.
  • Biodiversity Enhancement: Flax cultivation supports biodiversity by providing habitats for various beneficial insects and microorganisms. This can lead to a healthier ecosystem and a more resilient agricultural landscape.
  • Low Water and Pesticide Use: Unlike cotton, flax requires significantly less water and minimal pesticides. This reduction in resource use decreases the environmental impact and helps preserve vital natural resources.
  • Carbon Sequestration: Flax plants are efficient at capturing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and storing it in the soil. This process of carbon sequestration can help mitigate the effects of climate change by reducing greenhouse gas concentrations.
  • Durability and Longevity: Linen produced from flax fibres is incredibly durable and long-lasting. Garments made from linen tend to outlive those made from other fibres, reducing the need for frequent replacements and lowering the overall consumption of resources.

The Vision for Linen Denim Jeans

The vision behind linen denim jeans is not merely to create a new type of garment, but to revolutionise the way we approach clothing production. Inspired by initiatives like Fibreshed's "Grow Your Jeans" and building on the success of past projects, the goal is to produce jeans that are not only durable and in line with contemporary fashion tastes, but also environmentally responsible, embodying a positive, synergetic, and regenerative textile practice.

Even if we don’t manage to produce a full pair of jeans this year, we will adapt and create ¾ jeans or a mini skirt if necessary. We will continue to learn from each year's experience and carry these lessons forward into the next year and beyond.